"supertussi" and "macho, macho"

Sunday, 7 November 2010

...after flying high with "deadalus" - i  escaped with my girlfriend from the arriving winter to the beautiful sunny fall in the southern swizzypart (ticino). we spent some time hiking, cycling and relaxing. we met some friends we did not see for a while and visited brione for a bit of bouldering too.

discussing beta on a brione-intermediate with andrea, the owner of the 1001-gite in cresciano

after repeating a lot of the the beautiful easy and intermediates i wanted to check out a project left of "atlantis" from which i climbed a straight-topout (first ascent of "supertussi") last year."supertussi" climbs up a very obvious nicelooking littel crack-line. the beta however is not that obvious. there are good holds but you permantetly have the "wrong ones" in your fingers. as i first tried to solve one of that "wrong-hands-problems" with a "karate-curx-move", my friends were just laughing at me: "you can NEVER do such a move..." was their comment. 1h later i had done the move for the first time - it was just a matter of the accurate micro-beta :) and that was exactly what i liked about "supertussi" so much. i just am not really interested in the "boring" left-right-left. it was another "3D-puzzle" to solve, which took some time but finally got put together.

big holds but POWERFUL

That was back in 2008, but back then i was just not able to do the first move - no lack of beta - lack of power was the problem. last year i surprised myself by just doing the move first try back on the boulder and after 3days topping out "supertussi" ~8B'ish

 the strarting-move - watch for the "micro-beta" lefthand ;)

back then when we figured out beta for the boulder we first wanted to exit to the right cause we did not found any usefull beta for the straightout exit. but then suddenly we found a way to go out straight ("supertussi"). so there was still the right exit to climb.



FA of "supertussi" back last year. its quite tricky and powerfull but if you get the beta the climb is pretty fun - exactly how i like it ;). the exit on the lip to the right ("macho, macho") is still an OPEN project.

the ending to the right felt harder then the famous "molonk" around the corner but isolated from the sds it went down pretty well. so i thought the right exit (over "apollo") woud be way easier then the straight-up and as i felt strong i thought that i coud do it pretty fast. my only concern was if i coud get the physical startingmoves together again. i was SOOOO wrong. the starting moves went down pretty ok, but after failing for three days on the last (2) move(s) i had to give in (for the moment). so much to "i just give that some tries - it will go down fast". consequently i gave the project the name "macho, macho" ;))

and the best after bouldering, supertussi's and macho's getting PIZZA ;)) 

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